Thieves are thick on Lisbon’s two main tourist trams, 15 and 28. Within five minutes of arriving at a tram stop for #28, we’d pegged a pair of pickpockets. One carried a flat messenger bag and a newspaper, the other carried a jacket in the sweltering heat.
They stood well away from the gathering crowd waiting for #28. I was among the crowd; Bob watched from across the street, then down the block.
When the tram eventually lumbered along its tracks toward the stop, it was as if a director had called “action!” The waiting passengers tried to anticipate its exact stopping point; the two thieves moved in; Bob got into line; I kept to Bob’s right, camera aimed at his back pocket; one pickpocket threw his jacket over his left arm and went for Bob’s (prop) wallet; the other pickpocket got behind me, trying for my purse.
Slowly, we all mounted the tram stairs. I knew the thieves hadn’t succeeded, because they boarded also. If they’d gotten anything they wouldn’t have; but they still thought they had a chance.
Bob and I were both using new video cameras, and we both missed the shot. I had the better opportunity. Perfectly positioned, I saw everything. But I didn’t press the record button hard enough (though I thought I did). I missed the money shot.
The thieves moved to the back of the tram, where another pair, a man and a woman, joined them. It looked like they planned to work together. We were pretty sure they would try to block a departing passenger and pickpocket him on the stairs. Bob wanted to be that passenger, but I wanted to wait and see how their game played out.
Meanwhile, a woman looked at me with a big, friendly smile. “His wallet,” she said, patting her hip, “it’s dangerous…that way.” Laughing, she pointed her thumb behind her toward the back of the tram. To Bob she said “In her pocket is better.”
As the tram trundled on, I wondered why one of the pickpockets moved on my purse.
It’s made of thick, rough leather, has a narrow opening high in my armpit, and a deep shape. It would be impossible to get into—unless the man had a razor blade. Even with a blade it would be a challenge, but the cutpurse wouldn’t necessarily realize it. Not particularly stylish, the purse is perfect for thiefhunting. I found it in Beijing.
Too soon, the tram came to the end of its line and no one departed in front of the thieves. As the team of four dispersed, Bob accosted the original pair. We learned that they’re Portuguese, as was the third man, while his female partner was Bosnian. One of the thieves got busy on his mobile phone and wandered off—we guessed he was speaking with the third man.
We kept up a conversation with the second, who was willing to talk. He demonstrated his technique, nipping the wallet between his first and second fingertips.
Bob and I waited for the next tram to go back. So did the foursome, smoking, separated, cautious, on the grassy area at the end of the line. We got on; of course they didn’t.
We learned that pickpockets are also active on the stairs around the old elevator tower, despite the presence of security guards. We didn’t spend much time there. Worse, gang activity has increased dramatically over the past year, with immigrants arriving from the favellas of Brazil. Car-jackings are commonplace, even in the city center. Graffiti was everywhere.
The whole city is crumbling. Peeling plaster and missing tiles made for some interesting textures on the walls. Unfortunately, Lisbon can’t pull off the elegant flaky-paint look the way Venice does. Lisbon just looks terribly dilapidated, its glory days over, deteriorating as we watch. Its structures are still grand, but they’re dressed like homeless derelicts, with the same empty-eyed glower, all dignity and self-respect burned off by neglect.
What I have always loved about Lisbon (and other Portuguese cities) are the sidewalks; and these, I’m happy to report, are still immaculately maintained. Black and white mosaics of smooth marble cubes, they are still neat, level, and polished to a slippery shine. The designs are different wherever you walk, some simple geometric shapes, some extravagant patterns, even signs of the zodiac. I’ll post about the making of these mosaics later.
Next day, same place. Waiting for tram 28. We’re melting in the heat and up shuffles this guy, with a thick, dirty sweatshirt tied around his waist, and a messenger bag. Not too obvious, is he? When the tram neared he dragged himself into position, and stared blankly up at the shouting driver. The driver was not shouting at him; he was saying something about a broken door, that the tram was going out of service. No one got on. Our man trundled away, like a tram off its tracks, with no discernible destination.
13 Comments
I loved Lisbon, but some areas really gave me the creeps… Cais do Sodre at night, the Alcantara area as well and amazingly – even parts of Baixa in the middle of daylight!
It’s shocking to see they’re selling drugs and they’re even harassing travelers. No cops were around, but the creeps kept wandering around…
Pickpockets – plenty.
I suspected a potential camera snatching in the tunnel of the Alcantara railway station late evening… Managed to avert it, whether it was really what I thought it was or, whether it was something else…
Lisbon has quite a collection of creeps wandering its streets. At least I know which are some of the most dangerous areas to avoid:
http://www.escapehunter.com/escapes/portugal/lisbon-urban-fauna-shady-side-020714.php
I have worked and lived in 4 continents, including Brazil, Colombia, the DRC, Zimbabwe, Zambia and South Africa, the Middle East and most of Europe. In countries like Egypt, Morocco, Yemen, Ethiopia and Kenia and have widely travelled, mostly on public transportation.
Never ever have I been mugged or robbed.
Learn the basics of the local language. Familiarize yourself with the city on the first day. Make a list with IMPORTANT numbers and addresses (in English, and in the local language/script). Leave cameras and watch at the hotel. Carry a cheap throw-away phone, and buy a local chip. Get yourself oriented on the first day. Wear simple, used clothes – the kind you happily leave behind with the girls/guys at the hotel. Assume a I-live-here look.
Interesting blog Bambi and even more interesting is Cristiane’s comment. The victims are the guilty part, tempting with their innocence ( maybe ) … I know that is some true in what you said but over all is a big b.s. I can prove that to you if you want. It’s a very short experiment. I am also from london…
Probably the wars are happening from the same reasons, too many victims waiting… This is stupid. I have lived in many countries so far and I know that when you are a stranger you can be a target for criminals. Maybe we should just stay home, hidding. Or better, we should attack innocent people that seems like tourists.
To Eurotraveller
I couldn’t agree more with you. I travel to Lisbon once a year and walk in there all over my stay. I have NEVER been mugged or seen anything that could be labelled as violence. Lisbon glory days are never over, it is an enchanting city, very different from its European counterparts. I once heard that being mugged or having something stolen has to do with the “energy” the person is sending, like , your energy emanates from you and attracts this sort of situations. Like a magnet. I am from São Paulo and lived in Rio, now living in London. I have NEVER been mugged all my life. lol Maybe when you focus on the negative stuff, that happens to you! Lisbon is a wonderful city!
I am curious to know why on Earth would a criminal who lives in a favela in Brazil spend nearly 1,500 dollars to buy a ticket to Portugal to do in there what he can do in any Brazilian city?
This is absolutely nonsense. lol I do not believe this information not even a bit. lol Next time you go to Lisbon, please, please, find the person who sold you this story and challenge it!
You’re right, Euro traveller, there’s much more to Lisbon than the problems I wrote about. My husband and I are fond enough of Portugal that we used to have a home in the Algarve.
But as you must have noticed, my subject is primarily street crime. I don’t review hotels, point out museums, or track the latest restaurants. I research thievery and, if I find enough to write about, I come out with it.
And for the record, I do not base my conclusions on “narrow alley ways” or out-of-the-way no-go-zones. I’m interested primarily in the tourist trails. Unfortunately, so are the pickpockets and con artists.
Crime-wise, Lisbon is not unique, so don’t be offended. If you dig a little deeper into this blog, you’ll find articles on cities all over the world. I’m sure you know Lisbon in general better than I do, but I know crime and how it compares from city to city. From the visitor’s perspective, a little extra awareness is appropriate.
I understand that you’re trying to be helpful in warning about the street crimes that can take place in Lisbon, (or anywhere else), but things aren’t as bad as the way you make it sound. Lisbon might have its dangerous areas, but it’s also a beautiful city, with lots to offer, many things to see and do, history, culture, etc. Don’t judge a huge city by some narrow alley ways or old downtown streets that you saw. I’ve spent lots of time in Lisbon over the years, and never once was I pickpocketed, robbed, mugged, etc, nor did anyone ever attempt to do any of these things to me. Maybe you should write such things about your own hometown, or is it perfect and crime free? “Lisbon’s glory days over”??? Unless you’re referring to the time when Portugal was a big empire and Portuguese navigators were discovering the world… aside from that, Lisbon’s glory days are far from over. You’re obviously not a local, and you’re judging the city by a few days, or maybe a week or 2 that you spent there… you obviously don’t know much about this fabulous city. Don’t navigate in waters that you don’t know much about… pun intended.
Thanks, sweet pea. I agree: there’s lots to love about Lisbon.
It’s true that the old quarter of Lisbon (mainly the downtown areas) are falling apart… they should really conserve these old buildings, even the locals complain about that. Aside from that, however, the city does want to maintain its old look in the downtown area, it’s part of its quaint charm. Many of the crime that happens in Lisbon is committed by illegal immigrants – not Portuguese people. You do have to be careful, particularly in the downtown area, especially Intendente where most of the drug addicts spend their days and prostitution takes place. Aside from that just be careful like you would in any large city and have fun. There’s lots to see and do in Lisbon. Enjoy!
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I thought it was Tolstoy.
What is the elevator tower, a view point?
Another city going to hell. How sad. But even so, your writing makes me want to visit again. I’m ready to hit the road!
I wonder if the TOYSTAY graffiti is a phonetic rendition of TOY STORY.