How to steal a Rolex, Part 3 of 5

AS breaks omertà . I film feet.
AS breaks omertà . I film feet.

Naples, Italy— For most of this day, we’ve been accompanied by Mario, a friend and fabulous translator. Born in Italy, educated in Australia, now settled in Las Vegas, Mario grew up speaking textbook Italian at home while secretly imitating his parents’ Napolitano dialect, which he wasn’t allowed to use.

Pacco men secretly switch bags before finalizing a sale.
Pacco men secretly switch bags before finalizing a sale.

“No way!” Mario had said earlier, as Officer DC explained why the pacco men are allowed to continue their bait-and-switch scam year after year. They were now offering Bob a cell phone as we traversed their territory, not noticing our plainclothes police pal. When they recognized DC, they flocked around him like awestruck fans. DC eventually pushed through the gangster gauntlet, complaining that we’d never get to lunch if we stopped to talk with every crook. [More on bait-and-switch, eventually.]

Two scippatori cornered Bob. Five or six scooters buzzed us repeatedly, eyeing his Rolex. It's a fake. Of course our cameras were at great risk, as well.
Two scippatori cornered Bob. Five or six scooters buzzed us repeatedly, eyeing his Rolex. It’s a fake. Of course our cameras were at great risk, as well.

We turn into the Quartieri Spagnoli telling Mario how it’s not just your ordinary neighborhood. We pass the spot where Bob had been pinned from behind so long ago, a two-handed Rolex-robbery attempted on his old model by three of AS’s butterfingered predecessors. DC selects an empty trattoria. He orders “a mixture” for all of us, and a feast arrives, plate by small plate. Crisp-fried sardines, miniature arugula, zucchini flowers, and the tenderest calamari we’ve ever eaten.

Balconies, laundry, and steep stairs personify the quarter as much as crime.
Balconies, laundry, and steep stairs personify the quarter as much as crime.

“Watch your bag,” DC cautions Bob, who sits closest to the open door. DC, of course, has his back to the wall. “Do you know how they steal a watch when you’re driving a car?

“Yes,” I say. “When you’re stuck in traffic, they squeeze between cars on their scooters and fold your side mirror to get by. You reach out to fix the mirror and the next scooter-rider grabs it.”

DC seems disappointed that I know.

“How would they do it if you wear your watch on your right wrist?”

I say I don’t know.

“They make you shake hands, for some reason,” Bob suggests. DC doesn’t say.

This is part 3 of 5.  Part 4  Part 1

©copyright 2000-2013. All rights reserved. Bambi Vincent

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1 Comment

  1. Glorious stuff. Keep it up!


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