The three-shell game – part 3

A three-shell game in Copenhagen.

The Pea Game

Shills and Shells

Serge, a pea-gamer in Copenhagen.
Serge, a three-shell gamer in Copenhagen.

“It’s the talk that’s important,” Serge insisted, about the pea game. Each forceful word sent a curl of smoke into his own eyes. “Not the hands. The skill is the talk.” His fingers idly spun and twirled a matchbox as he spoke. “Why you want to know this? Why you ask me?”

Because we’d watched him work the crowds earlier in the day, watched him cheat a steady stream of happy-go-lucky vacationers. Because we’d watched his team of almost a dozen men take in bets of $3 minimum, up to $75, and no one ever won. And because we hadn’t expected this opportunity, this impromptu interview with an eminent operator.

It was past 10 p.m. when Bob and I began our stroll up Copenhagen’s Vesterbrogade, away from Tivoli, away from the maddening throngs of holiday-makers, away from the Swedes who swarm over by ferry or the new bridge for a night of cheap beer. The wide avenue got darker and quieter as we walked west, the shops more utilitarian and drab.

As we approached and passed a small restaurant, a diner at an outside table leered at me, swinging his huge head like a dashboard-dog’s as I passed. His lewd look was piercing enough that I turned back, only to see the man’s head swiveled backwards on his shoulders, eyes still fixed on me.

“I’ve got to go talk to him,” Bob said abruptly. Strange: I could have sworn he hadn’t noticed the man’s stare; neither is Bob the type to challenge a man for a glance. Feeling hostile and squeamish, I hung back, concealed and feeling protected by a sidewalk sign.

Pea game: A three-shell game in Copenhagen.
A three-shell game in Copenhagen.

Bob was smiling! I crept a little closer. Speaking in German. I made out a bit of it. Bob was asking the man about immigration policies in Denmark, but I hadn’t the faintest idea why. They spoke for several minutes before Bob rejoined me.

“Who is he?” I asked, half mad, half curious.

“One of the three-shell guys we saw today.”

“You’re kidding, a pea game guy! Did you ask him about it?”

“No, I just asked him about immigration. He’s from Kosovo.”

“But let’s go back and ask him about the pea game!” I said, going from zero to zeal in an instant. “What luck!”

We returned to the con man and his partner as they sat before empty dinner plates, each enjoying beers and cigarettes. The big head swung around to look me up and down, unapologetically. Perhaps it was second nature for him to appraise his opponents.

“Serge” was reluctant to spill his guts to strangers. It took considerable chit-chat before he warmed to us even a bit. Our conversation shifted back and forth between elementary English and rudimentary German.

Gently, we hinted that we’d seen him in Strøget, the pedestrian shopping street, that afternoon. He looked from me to Bob, questioningly. Yes, we’d seen him doing the three-shell game; he appeared to be quite proficient. We saw him take in large sums.

Serge smiled nervously, trapped in his seat as Bob and I stood at the edge of his table. His younger partner sat silently, lacking English and German.

“I make the game also,” Bob confided, “but only on stage. I’m a magician.”

Pea game: A three-shell game in Copenhagen.
A three-shell game in Copenhagen.

Serge visibly relaxed a notch. He balanced his cigarette pack on its corner and spun it under a fingertip, considering.

“There is not trick,” he tried, “just talk and fun.”

“I know the game. I’m interested in you. How many in your team?”

“Eight. Sometimes ten. Many men to share money.”

Serge had been operating the three-shell game for twenty years. First in his native Kosovo, then in Germany for six years, and finally in Copenhagen. Having fled the war in Yugoslavia, he had no papers in Denmark, he told us. What else could he do? How could he earn money?

“This job,” he said, “it is just to make fun for the tourists.” Palms up, fingers spread, shoulders hunched. “People see that it’s easy to win; they want to play.”

This is Part 3.
Read Part 1.

Excerpt from Travel Advisory: How to Avoid Thefts, Cons, and Street Scams
Chapter Eight: Con Artists and their Games of No Chance

© Copyright 2008-2013 Bambi Vincent. All rights reserved.

The three-shell game – part 2

3-shell game on La Rambla, Barcelona.

How the 3 shell game works.

3 shell game in Barcelona.

Three-shell game in Barcelona.

Video tape is a wonderful diagnostic tool when it comes to sleight of hand. In slow motion, we can see the phenomenal skill behind the Copenhagen teams’ manipulation. In other words, they do more than simply mix up the boxes with great speed and confusing baffles. They provide onlookers with fleeting peeks of pea as it’s shuttled around the mat, as it’s switched from box to box, moved from corner to corner. The player knits his brow in concentration, trying to follow its progress. The operator’s hands stop. The player is sure he knows where the ball is. Or is he? He hesitates.

If a player is about to make a winning bet, a shill quickly intercepts by turning over one of the boxes, throwing down his money, and ending the round. House odds rely on the operator’s ability to hoodwink the spectators with bluffs and psychology.

3 shell game on La Rambla, Barcelona.
3-shell game on La Rambla, Barcelona.

In New York and Las Vegas, the 3 shell games are played curbside, with bottle caps and a ball of sponge. The Spanish gangs we’ve studied in Barcelona’s Plaça de Catalunya are a brutal incarnation. They use vegetable props: the thick ends of carrots or small potato halves hollowed out to make shells. The game is played standing, on a rickety cardboard box-cum-table. Spotters are vigilant and malevolent. They want a crowd, but scrutinize the gathering individuals. Anyone who doesn’t appear to be a happy-go-lucky tourist-type gets a threatening once-over, an in-your-face stare, or a menacing growl. Cameras are blocked and overly-curious non-players are swiftly made to leave.

All 3 three shell gamers use the highly sophisticated techniques of professional magicians—or is it the other way around? In any case, it’s a method that ensures the punter will never win. The pea is manipulated by any of several methods, some of which use principles of magic I will not divulge except to say they employ a simple gimmick which is neither smoke nor mirror. The most common trick utilizes a miniature version of palming; you can call it thumbing. It allows the operator to sneak the ball out of and into any of the three shells or boxes. He can place it in a seemingly impossible location and guarantee a player will never win.

At the shrill whistle of a Spanish spotter, spectators see more magic. From within their very midst the operator vanishes and all traces of his game disappear. A flash and puff of smoke are all but real. Gaming pieces are gathered or flung away, and the cardboard box is flattened and tossed against a tree or trashcan: non-incriminating evidence. The team disperses like panicked pigeons and, when the coast clears, reforms its gambling gaggle.

3 shell game in Copenhagen.
3-shell game in Copenhagen.

In the aftermath one day, Bob and I found a young German tourist weeping on a sidewalk bench. A girlfriend tried to comfort her, though she, too, was distraught. Through angry tears, the girl sputtered her tale: she’d lost too much money, goaded and cajoled to bet in a fast-paced game she only vaguely followed. She’d been separated from her friend, surrounded by strangers, and pressured to play.

This is Part 2. Read Part 3.
Read Part 1.

Excerpt from Travel Advisory: How to Avoid Thefts, Cons, and Street Scams
Chapter Eight: Con Artists and their Games of No Chance

© Copyright 2008-2013 Bambi Vincent. All rights reserved.

The three-shell game

The three-shell game in Copenhagen.

Pavement wagers.

The three-shell game in Copenhagen.
The three-shell game in Copenhagen.

Copenhagen’s pedestrian shopping street is an ideal venue for the three-shell game, also called the pea game. Several competing crews set up there. They choose locations in the middle of a block along the narrow lane, which is swarming with jolly people from all over the world, shopping, slurping ice cream, and munching ambrosial Belgian waffles as they meander.

Three-shell game

A pair begins the game: a barker, and an operator. The operator drops to his knees, produces a small rubber mat not much bigger than a mousepad, and begins manipulating his pieces. Instead of the traditional walnut shell halves, he uses three matchbox trays reinforced with tape. His pea is an aluminum foil ball.

He slides the boxes madly around his mat, his hands a blur.

“Lef’, ri’, mi’l! One, two, three. Where’za ball?” He is sloppy—on purpose? One box goes sliding off the mat.

Immediately, a man places a bet and wins. A shill. Another man, another bet, a loss. Laughter rings out, but it sounds hollow and false. Hands fly over the mat and in the process, a box is briefly tipped, revealing the ball.

Quickly, an audience gathers. Everybody knows: a crowd draws a crowd. Excitement builds. Money changes hands. Bills are flashed and stashed.

“Totto-lotto, mini-casino! Wanna play? Twenny bucks!”

“Just looking.”

“Lookie-cookie. Sir! Wanna play? Where’za ball?”

The barker’s narration lures. The operator’s manipulation tempts. Imagined winnings seduce. It looks so easy: you can see the ball! Bets are placed: an easy win, a stupid loss… and soon enough, a tourist tries.

A three-shell game in Copenhagen
A three-shell game in Copenhagen

Five team members immediately close around him. They joke in any language, whatever is called for. A moment of suspense and camaraderie is staged. The operator is on the ground with his game, kneeling before his rubber mat, hunched over his boxes and ball.

“One, two, three, four. Lef’, ri’, mi’l! Where’za ball?” He’s tightly surrounded by the six standing men: the barker, the transitory player, and some shills. For a moment, no one else can see the game. The player chooses, a cry goes out in sympathy. The circle opens and the spectators are once again included as the loser slinks away.

But wait! Arms around the player’s shoulders, a conspiratorial back-pat. “You can do it! One more time, double or nothing!” So encouraging, so friendly, who’d guess these guys were in on it? Moments later, the player turns away, shakes his head, wonders how he could have lost so much so quickly.

Bob and I run after him.

“How much did you lose?”

“Fifteen hundred crowns!” About $260.

“Where’re you from?”

“Bhutan.”

“Why did you play?”

“I’ve never seen this game. It looked fun.”

“This is one game you can never win.”

“I know that now!” He hikes up his backpack and strides away.

Bob and I follow our noses to a waffle stand and wait for a fresh one hot off the iron. A rosy-cheeked girl hands it over, steaming and blackened, caramelized surface stuck to its parchment wrapper. Standing on a street corner, we savor the chewy sweetness of this European street snack. It has no relation to American waffles.

“See the guy in the pink jacket? Bob points with his chin, chewing.

“No.”

“There near the trash can.”

“That’s an orange jacket.” I reach for the waffle.

“Orange, then. He’s a spotter.”

“For the three-shell guys? How can you tell?”

“Just watch him. And his partner over there, in plade.”

“Plaaaaad.”

“Plaaaaad.” He wants to get the word right next time. But he won’t. “They’re looking for police. They were there before, too.”

We finish the waffle and watch a while longer.

A crowd forms around a three-shell game in Copenhagen.
A crowd forms around a three-shell game in Copenhagen.

“Now!” Bob says, and we’re off. The orange and plaid guys walk full speed up the lane, weaving deftly through the oblivious crowd. We follow in their wake.

The spotters reach the tight knot of people gathered around their colleagues, but they don’t stop. They don’t even pause. They hurry to the next corner, to alert their bookend pair of spotters. Yet, the gaming gang has seen them and that’s all the signal they need. They scatter. In the blink of an eye the game is over, the gang is gone, and the crowd is left wondering what they were gathered for, if anything at all.

This is Part 1. Read Part 2.

Excerpt from Travel Advisory: How to Avoid Thefts, Cons, and Street Scams

Chapter Eight: Con Artists and their Games of No Chance

© Copyright 2008-2013 Bambi Vincent. All rights reserved.

Hotel oddity #37

Floating signs—in-your-face.
Floating signs—in-your-face.
Floating signs—in-your-face.

The floating sign. As if the preponderance of signs in hotel rooms were not in-your-face enough.

For this hotel in Berlin, messages stuck on walls and set on tables are not loud enough. They have to be SHOUTED, thrust at us, rudely forced forward into our airspace.

And they are everywhere. Poking from the minibar, floating in front of the television, rising above the telephone.

Important messages, like this one: “Have you thought about breakfast?”

Yes, I always think about breakfast in the bathroom. At this moment in the bathroom, I can’t help but think of breakfast. Thank you!

© Copyright 2008-2013 Bambi Vincent. All rights reserved.

Four cows in a truck in Egypt

Four cows in a pickup driving down the road in Egypt.

Four cows in a pickup driving down the road in Egypt.
Four cows in a pickup driving down the road in Egypt.

The beige-blue nothingness along a road in Egypt.

A road sign in Egypt.

Four cows appeared like a mirage, sizzling in the squiggly heat waves off the never-ending road. Our hot, monotonous drive across Egypt had dulled my mind. Beige and blue miles of litter-strewn nothingness and finally—I’m hallucinating? Had Egypt Air not lost our luggage and required hours of driving back and forth, I’d never have seen the cows.

Four cows squashed sideways in the bed of a pickup, bouncing down the highway, foaming at the mouth from… anxiety? thirst? delirium? Our driver told us they’d be driven 300 kilometers. He didn’t say they’d arrive alive.

© Copyright 2008-2013 Bambi Vincent. All rights reserved.

Avoid becoming victim of theft and scams on vacation

Bob Arno on Sonoran Living TV

On the set before filming this live segment for ABC News, Bob Arno stole a wallet from one of the camera operators. The producers asked him to do it.

Bob snuck away with the wallet, brandishing it to the other nearby staff who’d gaped as the theft occurred. They were unaware of Bob’s topic—theft and scams—or at least of his skills.

Almost simultaneously, a uniformed security guard blasted into the studio—the scene of the crime—having witnessed the thief on his monitor.

“He was ready to throw your criminal butt out of our studio,” laughed host Susan Casper.

The wallet was presented to the cameraman on-air.

© Copyright 2008-2013 Bambi Vincent. All rights reserved.

Outrageous excuse delays return of found lost luggage

Bambi Vincent on stage in costume

Bambi Vincent on stage in costume. Lost luggage.

“We can’t export your found lost-luggage because it contains an artificial hand which requires the permission of the ministry of health.”

I’m starting with the punchline of our recent Egypt Air debacle. “Shall we retain the artificial hand and release your bag?”

Lost luggage

We’d flown to Cairo and on to Hurghada, where only two of our bags made it. The lost case contained our stage props, including the gypsy costume you see in the photos. I wear a doll in a sling, which appears to be supported by what is actually a fake arm. The arm is sewn to the doll.

Apparently Egypt’s ministry of health was not concerned about exporting an artificial child.

The missing prop bag was still in Cairo, Egypt Air officials said, and would arrive on the next flight to Hurghada. So next morning, we made the hour-long trip back to the airport and—of course—no luggage.

Promises… delays…. Finally, the bag arrived in Hurghada. A driver was sent to pick it up. It took too long though. By then we were down to the wire. The driver, finally on his way back with the bag, gave his ETA as 20 minutes. But we were forced to move on. We could not wait. After all, we’d come to perform and the show must go on. Props or no props.

The suitcase was passed to DHL, who was to ship it to Dubai, the next stop on our Middle East tour.

“We need a detailed list of what the case contains,” DHL now requested. Our exhaustive reply included “Fake female arm with jewelry and sleeve (stage prop).”

Bambi Vincent on stage in costume. Lost luggage.

DHL piddled around with lazy, ineffective emails and before they were ready to ship, we’d left Dubai, too. It was an unfunny comedy of errors, and we were beginning to wonder if we’d ever see our bag again. Instructions were revised: DHL must now ship the bag to the U.S.

We were already incredulous over this real-life display of inefficiency–and then the punchline came. We figure someone was fishing for baksheesh. “After inspection, we found item like artificial hand. We can’t export artificial hand.”

OMG! Seriously? Are we supposed to offer a bribe, or what? Was this extortion? Was Egypt accusing us of an illegal arms export?

I wrote back indignant: “This is NOT an artificial hand, it is a hollow PLASTIC PROP for our show!” I pointed out that the “fake female arm” was number 22 on the proforma invoice I had submitted, and attached a photo of myself with the artificial hand holding the artificial child.

And that was it. The bag showed up at our house the day after we returned home.

More lost luggage

But that’s not all. We flew home on Qatar Airways. We checked our three bags to our final U.S. destination. Upon landing in Houston, we claimed our three bags, took them through customs, and re-checked them for our US Airways flight. All three went missing!

Two days later, we had them back. So I’m not complaining. Just reporting an extreme travel farce. Travel is glamourous!

© Copyright 2008-present Bambi Vincent. All rights reserved.

Pickpockets prefer women. Why and what to do.

Bambi Vincent in Khasab, Oman

Pickpockets prefer women!

Bambi Vincent in Khasab, Oman. Pickpockets prefer women.
Bambi in Khasab, Oman

It’s not that we’re any less savvy. It’s the darn handbag. It’s simply easier for a pickpocket to slip his fingers into a bag than into a pocket. Or worse, to grab the whole bag. Our research proves it: pickpockets prefer women!

Anti-Theft Tips for Women

Don’t send signals that you’re worth the thief’s effort. Forget the flashy jewelry when you’re out and about. Knock-off watches and costume jewelry are no better; the thief can’t tell they’re fake.

Public restrooms: Rude, but true: you may or may not notice a hand reach over the door and snag your bag off the hook at the most inopportune moment. Loop it around the hook and keep your eye on it. Dropped coins in the stall beside could be a distraction ruse.

If you carry a purse, try to give it nerve endings: hold it snug against your body, never let it stick out behind you, especially never let it stick out behind you open.

  • Use a wide-strapped bag and wear the strap diagonally across your chest, or a short-strapped one with the purse tucked under your arm.
  • Keep your bag closed properly. If it has a flap, wear the flap against your body.
  • Keep your wallet at the bottom of your purse.
  • Never hang your purse on the back of a chair in a public place, where it’s out of your sight. Keep it on your lap. If you must put it on the floor, tuck the strap under your thigh, or put the chair leg through it.
  • Be sure your purse is in front of you as you enter revolving doors, board trains, etc.
  • Never leave your purse in a shopping cart or baby stroller.
  • Never set your purse down in a shop so you can turn your attention elsewhere.
  • To prevent a drive-by bag snatch, walk far from the curb, on the side of the street towards traffic.
  • If your bag is snatched, let it go. It may be impossible to fight the instinct to hold on, but try to ingrain that thought. You can get seriously hurt in a bag snatch.
Pickpockets prefer women. Secure your fanny pack zippers with paperclips, or anything to slow a thief.
Secure your fanny pack zippers with paperclips, or anything to slow a thief.

Fanny packs may not be the height of fashion, but they are very safe if you secure the zippers, which are easily opened by practiced thieves. Use a safety pin, a paperclip fastened to a rubberband around the belt strap, or string. Anything to make opening the zipper more difficult.Hotel lobbies are not secure enough to leave bags unguarded.

Business travelers:

  • Don’t leave your purse, laptop, or briefcase unguarded at hotel breakfast buffets. “Breakfast thieves” specialize in stealing these at upscale hotels.
  • Always make sure your hotel room door closes completely when you leave.
  • Do not carry your electronic card key in its folder marked with your room number.
  • In nightclubs, do not leave your drink unattended. Drink-drugging is a growing problem.
  • Stow your stuff safely in underclothes pouches.

For a summary of common (and not-so-common) thefts, cons, and scams, see Pickpockets, Con Artists, Scammers, and Travel.

© Copyright 2008-2013 Bambi Vincent. All rights reserved.

Theft-proof vacation travel

Thiefhunters in Paradise. Empty pockets. 404

Theft-proof vacation

Empty pockets; Theft-proof vacation

Just about now, millions of people are thinking about summer travel. For many, it will be foreign travel. Novice or expert, it doesn’t hurt to review a few travel safety tips. Thefts everywhere are on the increase. And you want a theft-proof vacation, right?

Make these theft-thwarter tips a practice whether you’re far away or not so far, and you’re much less likely to become a sad statistic.

Bags

•Count them often and watch that everything is loaded into your taxi. Sometimes they’re not.
•Keep an eye on them in the hotel lobby; anyone can walk in and grab them when you’re not paying attention. It happens.
•Assess the risks of hotel lobby luggage storage before taking advantage of the service. Is it a locked room? Are they just in a heap in the lobby? Is there free access to them?
•Be aware that carry-on allowance may be severely limited on flights originating outside of America. Roll-ons allowed within the U.S. may be required to fly cargo on foreign flights. Choose a lockable carry-on, or keep a canvas tote handy to shift your valuables and necessities into if your bag is taken away for cargo.

Smartphones

Theft-proof vacation. The young pickpocket tries to nab the phone one-handed under his paper. (Frame grab from video.)
The young pickpocket tries to nab the phone one-handed under his paper. (Frame grab from video.)

•Do not leave valuables sitting exposed on a café table. Thieves can swipe smartphones as swiftly as a magician.
•Don’t flaunt it, or your iPad. These are highly valuable swipeables, and “Apple-picking,” when these electronics are snatched from users’ hands, is becoming more frequent and more dangerous.

ATMs

Cover your fingers as you enter your PIN.
•Do not become distracted by activity around you. Fake fights are sometimes staged, or you might be asked for assistance.

Hotel Rooms

Theft-proof vacation. Hotel bed
•Do not carry your electronic card key in its folder marked with your room number.
•Check outside window access before leaving your window open when you’re gone or asleep. Do a hotel room security check.
•Always make sure your door closes completely when you leave your room.
•Remind yourself to empty the safe with a note in your shoe.

Public Transportation

•The moments of entering and exiting crowded public transportation are your most vulnerable and a thief’s most rewarding.
•If you’re in a crowd, be particularly aware of your valuables. Suspect bumps or jostles: they may be a distraction technique.
•Do not leave your bag unattended on a train. Do not leave it on luggage racks at the end of the carriage. Be aware of it if you place it on an overhead rack.
•If you’re pickpocketed in a crowd, try demanding the return of your item. It might mysteriously hit the floor. Shout out, too, on the off chance an undercover police officer is nearby.

Theft-proof vacation. A Lisbon pickpocket demonstrates
A Lisbon pickpocket demonstrates how he steals a wallet.
Theft-proof vacation. The pigeon poop perp squirts fake bird droppings on his mark, then points it out and offers to clean it off—while he cleans the victim out.
The pigeon poop perp squirts fake bird droppings on his mark, then points it out and offers to clean it off—while he cleans the victim out.

Pockets

•No, they’re not safe for valuables.
•Yes, buttons, zippers, and velcro give a fraction of a drop of extra protection in that they take the pickpocket an extra second.
•Use under-clothes pouches to store your stuff safely. Or try Stashitware, underpants with a safe pocket.
•Remove valuables from the pockets of a jacket before hanging it on the back of a chair.

Old Tricks

•Escalators: Recognize the Pile-Up-Pick. The person in front of you drops something just as the escalator ends, bends to pick it up and causes a pile-up. As people compress in the crash, the person behind you picks your pocket.
•Helpful cleaners: Heads up if you hear “something dirty got on you—let me help you clean it off.” He’ll clean you out.
•Electronic equipment surreptitiously offered on street corners is tempting, but you’ll walk away with a block of wood, and wonder how it happened. Heads up on the bait-and-switch scam.
•You cannot win pavement wagers. The three-shell game, three-card monte and others are designed to extract your money. The operator is in complete control and fellow players are shills.
•If you buy art or furniture to have shipped home by the store, take a picture of it just to be sure you get the right items. The very act of photographing seems to increase your odds.

Theft-proof vacation. Four pickpockets at work on a crowded tram.
Four pickpockets at work on a crowded tram.

Bottom Line
•Don’t attract thieves by looking like a wealthy tourist. Don’t wear flashy jewelry. Or replicas—the thief can’t tell your Rolex is fake or your jewelry is costume. Leave it in your hotel.
•You can never obtain 100% total security, but aim for a compromise that is comfortable for your travel style.
•Remember: the idea is to increase your awareness and decrease the opportunities for an unfortunate incident.

Have a great summer and a theft-proof vacation! And happy travels!

© Copyright 2008-2013 Bambi Vincent. All rights reserved.

Hotel Oddity #36

Would an elevator toll be tolerated at a U.S. hotel? Hard to imagine.
Insert ten euro cents to make the elevator operate.
Got a dime for the lift?

Our hotel in Naples was on the second floor (they call it the first floor). We didn’t notice it had an elevator until the day we left. We usually take stairs when we can and, when we arrived, we were luggageless anyway. Two days later our suitcases joined us and at the end of our stay, we dragged them all to the elevator. It was the first time we’d seen an elevator meter. It required ten euro cents to operate.

Would an elevator toll be tolerated at a U.S. hotel? Hard to imagine.
Would an elevator toll be tolerated at a U.S. hotel? Hard to imagine.

© Copyright 2008-2013 Bambi Vincent. All rights reserved.