Street crime in Buenos Aires
Pianist Stephen Kane
When my friend, Stephen Kane, described what he witnessed on a recent afternoon in Buenos Aires, I begged him to write it down for me. Following is his account.
Bad action in Buenos Aires
Prior to my first visit to Buenos Aires I was warned about the mustard/ketchup gag. As you’re walking, carrying a shoulder bag, someone sneaks behind you and squirts mustard or ketchup on your back. The accomplice later offers to help you clean it off. You remove the bag from your shoulder to do that and then it disappears along with the thief. So I felt particularly foolish when it almost immediately happened to me. I noticed I had been squirted but just kept holding my bag tightly and walking until I was safely out of the area. I have been back to Argentina many times and, thankfully, have never been threatened with robbery again.
So I suppose I was due for one particularly eventful day. I wasn’t the victim but the witness of two different scenes.
I was having Saturday lunch in a cafe on the corner of Corrientes and Florida. I was sitting at the window and had a very clear view of the crowd of people and traffic at the intersection. If I hadn’t been looking in the right direction I’d have never seen it happen. It was much too fast; so fast that nobody nearby realized it had happened until it was over. A tall, beautifully dressed girl was standing with her boyfriend waiting for the light to change so they could cross the street. Mixed into the traffic speeding down Corrientes was a large motorcycle carrying two men. The cycle suddenly stopped right in front of her and the man on back jumped off. He grabbed the girl from behind, putting one of his hands over her mouth to keep her from screaming. With the other hand he grabbed her necklaces and purse. By the time she was able to even make a sound and alert her boyfriend the thief was back on the cycle with his accomplice and speeding away in escape. But the event wasn’t finished. Someone standing nearby actually did see the robbery and managed to capture a picture of the thieves on a cellphone camera. I watched as they all summoned a policeman and showed him the photo of the cyclists. Of course, during the discussion that followed, the victims were much more animated than the policeman. After pleading with him for several minutes they eventually gave up and went on their way. So did the crowd. So did the policeman.
Petter, a thief in Lima, told us that one member of his team always carries a knife.
After lunch I walked a few blocks down Florida and turned into a small, uncrowded side street. I noticed a commotion in a stairwell area up ahead. There was an elderly couple who were obviously tourists. The man was wearing a white wind-breaker and there was a large camera bag hanging from his shoulder. His wife had just noticed a large blob of red ketchup splattered across the back of the jacket. But another couple was there as well. This “local woman” had a handful of tissue or paper towels and was, very concernedly, trying to assist the woman in cleaning the mess off her husband. The “local’s husband” was just beginning to reach for the camera bag, assisting the stained man. Since I knew from experience what was happening I yelled out to the tourist couple, “Be careful! They’re about to steal your bag!” It was when they looked at me in total confusion that I realized they didn’t speak English and had no idea who I was or why I was screaming at them. The “local’s husband” took a lunging step toward me, glaring furiously. At the same time he reached a hand into his own jacket, insinuating he had a gun, a knife, or some sort of weapon. In all my travels I’ve only been robbed once. A man in Salvador de Bahia, Brazil, pulled a knife on me. That wasn’t an experience I wanted to repeat so I nodded to the “local’s husband” that I fully understood the situation and quickly left the scene. I can only hope that tourist couple took the time during this threat to me to figure out why I was trying to warn them.
- – -
Wow, you’d think Stephen was a thiefhunter, out looking for action. We’d employ him if he’d accept our terms (hugs in lieu of payment).
From the U.S. Department of State’s most recent Argentina information sheet:
Visitors to Buenos Aires and popular tourist destinations should be alert to muggers, pickpockets, scam artists, and purse-snatchers on the street, in hotel lobbies, at bus and train stations, and in cruise ship ports. Criminals usually work in groups and travelers should assume they are armed. Criminals employ a variety of ruses to distract and victimize unsuspecting visitors.
A common scam is to spray mustard or a similar substance on the tourist from a distance. A pickpocket will then approach the tourist offering to help clean the stain, and while doing so, he or an accomplice robs the victim. Thieves regularly nab unattended purses, backpacks, laptops, and luggage, and criminals will often distract visitors for a few seconds to steal valuables. While most American victims are not physically injured when robbed, criminals typically do not hesitate to use force when they encounter resistance. Visitors are advised to immediately hand over all cash and valuables if confronted. Thieves will target visitors wearing expensive watches or jewelry.
• For more on the “condiment caper,” read:
The Pigeon Poop Pickpocket
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9 comments for now
Steve Martin. LA Story. Victoria Tennant. Richard E Grant. They’ve just been to dinner at l’Idiot (run by Patrick Stewart) and are at an ATM. The people waiting to use the ATM are lined up at one side. There’s another line at the other side…
Sounds like the directive’s implying things are getting that bad.
The people on the other side of the ATM are queuing up to rob the people one by one as they get their cash. Martin gets his cash and the next robber pops up, baseball cap and hippie locks, toting a revolver.
‘Hi! I’m Bob and I’ll be your robber tonight!’
Martin smiles as if this is all both pleasant and expected, hands over the cash, and he and Tennant and Grant are on their way again. Just a typical evening in modern life.
06 Jun 2009 at 8:58 am
Oh, gotta see that. I like Steve Martin. Thanks!
06 Jun 2009 at 9:42 am
My husband and I have visited BA several times over the last 10 years. (We enjoy and dance Tango)
The last time we were mugged in broad daylight in San Martin park across from the Marriott.
We were sitting on a bench, the park was crowded with people. Two men attacked us and stole my husbands watch (which was hidden under a tEnnis braclet) and the other man tried to get my watch, but I bent my body forward covering the watch. A third mugger was waiting to help their escape on a motor bike We met another couple who were also mugged in broad daylight on the most busy street in BA.
The tourist police (in orange vests) are a farce. They only make their location obvious to the muggers, What is needed are undercover police posing as tourists.
If you go to the American Embassy you will find many Americans waiting for days, for a replacement passport, because they were robbed of thier money, jewlery, and travel documents. – BE WARNED – THIS WILL HAPPEN TO YOU. – IT IS BETTER TO AVOID BUENOS AIRES.
11 Jun 2009 at 7:46 am
Instead of avoiding Buenos Aires, Kathy, it’s better to go PREPARED. The age-old advice, dress down, is timeless and should be taken seriously. A tennis bracelet—isn’t that basically a string of diamonds? Doesn’t matter if they’re fake; the thief can’t tell. He sees diamonds, or flash, and it translates to “wealthy foreigner.” He may look you up and down and decide to go for your purse or wallet. He may bide his time and wait for an opportunity, if you look like you’re worth it. Dress down, don’t give the thieves easy opportunities, and at least you won’t be a magnet to them.
On the other hand, if you decide to skip Buenos Aires because of street crime, you’ll skip many of the world’s greatest cities. Buenos Aires is not unique, as the stories in this blog prove.
Dress down, don’t give thieves an easy opportunity, and research your destination before you go.
11 Jun 2009 at 8:56 am
If you’re thinking of going to Buenos Aires, please read OSAC’s “Argentina 2009 Crime and Safety Report” dated 8/19/09. OSAC is the U.S. Government’s Overseas Security Advisory Council.
The report is here: http://bit.ly/OvKqu
Specifically, OSAC suggests that everyone carry US$100-200 or equivalent in Argentinian pesos, because “Criminals in Argentina frequently resort to violence if they perceive a victim is being uncooperative or if the target does not have anything worth stealing. Those without money to offer thieves are most likely to be attacked or beaten. If confronted, offer no resistance and immediately hand over everything demanded.”
25 Aug 2009 at 3:50 pm
We were in BA two years ago. Two muggers approached us in broad daylight near Florida Street. I carry a switchblade strapped to my leg and another large switchblade in my pocket. When the mugger tried to take my watch, I sliced off his nose. The other mugger started to run; I chased him and cut his face with two strokes. That is the way top handle street criminals in BA
30 Jan 2010 at 7:55 pm
I’ve got to agree with John. Handing over your money is feeding the hand that bites you. My experience, even here in the U.S. is that streets are safest when citizens are willing and prepared to defend themselves. It isn’t pretty, but it is the truth.
06 Feb 2010 at 2:15 pm
I am a frequent traveller to Latin America and I often advise friends to avoid Buenos Aires. My advice to travelers in Buenos Aires is to dress down and take safe taxis while avoiding walking if possible unless it is in a very upscale part. I personally choose to carry a knife and a collapsable truncheon whenever I do have to walk there. I’ve lost track of how many street crimes I have witnessed. Aside from cheap leather goods, there is little of interest in this city as it is an impoverished graffiti filled shabby imitation of a European city. If Buenos Aires were a woman then she would be one of those typical middle aged Argentines with the cheap peroxide blonde hair, she is desperately trying to look young and European while fooling no one. Buenos Aires offers nothing you can’t find elsewhere. If observing and studying street crime is your hobby then is is a great destination.
21 Feb 2010 at 11:21 pm
I just returned from Buenos Aires- was waiting for a taxi outside the apartment I had been renting – the taxi was late- I had two big suitcases filled with instruments and a bagpack with passport, green card, airplane ticket, money, computer etc. A person came up and asked if I needed a hotel – I said no- that was a distraction- somebody stole my bagpack while I answered – the police did not want to come and help- nobody on the street was hepful – I warn everyone that goes to Buenos Aires to keep everything on your body in pockets- not in bags or visible- do not talk to anyone you do not know- do not look like a tourist in any way- a very disappointing experience with consequenses- I had to wait for several days for letter of transportation at the US Embassy and I also had to get a passport on the Danish embassy. And get a new airplane ticket. Not a great experience.
08 May 2010 at 11:02 am